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Kitchen-Guitar Stool – A curved seat!
Reflecting on the seat design of the Bar Stool, I am troubled by the waste created by cutting the seat out of a block of wood. It was a simple design in appearance, a curved board, two jigs and a bandsaw to complete. The remnants were significant, wood from both the top and bottom that allowed the flat boards to become curved.
The Kitchen-Guitar stool also has a curved seat, but of a very different design. Thin sheets of plywood glued over a form. Let’s take a look.
First step was to make a form. It was a simple process of making five identical curves and attaching them to a board. I made a 1/2 plywood pattern and used the router table to duplicate the curve. Once complete I attached the curved boards to a piece of plywood. That was the easy part the difficult part was finding 1/8”plywood that would bend around the form. Eventually I found some at Rockler. It wasn’t cheap but i had no other option,
This is the first time that I have used a vacuum press to curve a board and I’ll put detail of what I used here. Needless to say I enjoyed the process and ended up with a nice form. 5 pieces of 1/8” plywood and 12 hours later and a curved seat appeared.
A little trimming and smoothing and the seat should be ready to go.
Kitchen Guitar Stool -Legs
Stools are fairly simple structures. Legs, aprons, cross braces, and seats. The challenge comes when making them strong and stable, adding angles to joints. The design that Becksvoort developed uses mortise and tenon joints for the aprons and tapered rungs fitted into tenons to provide cross braces. His choice of tapered rungs makes great sense. They are simple to make and using an angled hole is quicker and simpler than using a square mortise. Additionally, the rungs will not show the wear of square braces. Since I don’t have a lathe, I will be making angled mortises and tenons.
After dimensioning the legs the apron mortises were cut using my powered mortiser (love this machine) The great thing about Becksvoort’s Apron design is that the apron tenons are angled allowing the mortises to be straight.
Now for the aprons and tenons to fit into these mortises. Angled legs create great challenges and the use of straight mortises means that the Aprons must have angled tenons.
Length was made on the Tablesaw using my mitre sled followed by cutting the tenon by hand. There’s many ways to cut the tenon and as an afterthought probably some more accurate methods, but getting out the hand saw was quick and I need the saw to adjust the width anyway.
Lastly I cut them at a 45 degree angle. It’s a simple pleasure to make the cut.
As a larger challenge the plans called for the angles to be different for each side. Don’t tell anyone but I ignored the two degree difference. I’ll see at the end if this was a mistake.
Self proposed challenges. The little things that didn’t go quite as planned. The precise cutting of the tenons was enhanced by miscutting the length not once but twice. this left the mortises slightly long. Not a big problem just required a small piece to infill the mortise. There was also the problem with the runaway drill. We all do multiple projects and I accidentally used the leg as a backstop for drilling a hole. Since this is a piece for my own use I just plugged the hole and moved on.
Kitchen – Guitar Stool – Dimensioning Lumber
Slow start today. Running this morning in almost 80 percent humidity took the ‘get up and go’ out of me so it was mid afternoon before I wandered into the shop. Continuing to contemplate wood choice I finally just dove in with the cherry left over from prior projects. It’s a bit of a mixture of sizes and it took a bit of sorting before I had the major components identified.
Then it was table saw, bandsaw and planer until the legs were the same dimensions and square and the upper rails all the correct width and size.
I did take the time to ensure that all surfaces were flat before cutting the larger board to make the upper rails, used my planer as a jointer per the usual process.
Sometimes you’ve just got to make a decision and move forward. One little bit of risk I had to consider was that the width of one of the legs was just under size. I could make them all slightly smaller …or I could make sure that the edge is tapered and hope that I don’t taper the wrong side. You can clearly see the leg that needs to be watched in the picture below.
Thinking ahead, the seat of the stool in the article is made of leather and since She who works Leather and Wood is not nearby (Please visit Marilyn’s blog). I’ll have to find an alternate place to get some help. There’s a little shop that I pass occasionally maybe I’ll stop in and see if they can do the seat.
Morley Bar Stool – Seat Rails
Chairs have angles and in the case of this stool the angle of the front legs is 6.5 degrees from the back legs. The design of the stool actually means that as long as you are consistent the angle could vary slightly.
I spent the morning dimensioning and cutting to size for the rails two for each chair (8 total). Generally things went smooth with a small problem.
As I finished up some of the lumber dimensioning a couple of fun things happened. The first was the movement in some of the off cuts I had set aside. Walked out of the shop for a few hours and these slits had opened up considerably. The second item is less enjoyable. Saw Stop blade struck what remained of a staple in the end of board, another blade damaged. If I had trimmed the end a few mm further up the board would have saved a lot of money.
It was necessary at this point to take a walk!
Morley Bar Stool – Make another seat
When last we visited the seat construction was going well and i was going to finish the blog with a quick view into cutting the seat to final dimensions. That did not go as planned so I got to make one more seat blank and repeat!
Here’s what happened and several lessons that followed. The blanks needed to be smoothed and I did this using a belt sander for their concave curves and I hand plane and sander for the convex curves. Yeah I know the hand tools keep sneaking into the process. No pictures of the smoothing but I think you can imagine it. Once the curve was smooth the seat blank (curved needed to be trimmed to size and shaped. You can see the template in the picture below.
I mounted the template onto the first three blanks and trimmed it on the bandsaw and used the router table to bring out to final shape. Blank number three…Don’t tell anyone but I screwed the template on in the wrong direction! The bandsaw was very efficient as it cut off the wrong end and I had a seat without enough depth…firewood! I took the other blanks and all went well until the last one where the router ate part of the blank. Puzzled I learned that the router bit was too low since the mounting bolt had loosened. Two mistakes and I leave the shop. No sense i risking injuries when I am frustrated with myself.
Later I returned to the lumber yard picked up a new board and made two more seat blanks. This also brought about a new lesson, I could not cut the curve smoothly on the blank. After several minutes I remembered changing to the wider bandsaw blade and realized that it was preventing the blade to match the desired curve. As I mention I am relatively new to the bandsaw and curved jigs. A narrower blade and everything worked well.
Jig Building – Morley Bar Stools
There are four stools to be made as part of this project and repetitive tasks lend themselves to power tools and jigs. Not being a frequent jig builder, I found this a challenge and in particular the instructions were not as clear as I hoped. I’ll share a few photos and a brief description of the method I came up with after watching the videos of the jigs in action.
The seat consists of three boards with a curved front and back. Each curve requires a separate jig. Let’s take a look at the concave cut first
The Jig consists of two curves made of plywood. One piece fixed to the band saw with a clamp and a second that rides alongt the edge of the first piece of plywood like a turn table. On these pieces I glued up a couple of pieces of 2×4 to ma end support structure for the seat blanks and a third that will allow a clamp to be placed to hold the blank secure. The two support strucures required a couple of cuts on the table saw to securely first the blank at the correct angle
In the pictures below you can see how the two pieces of plywood interact.
I think you can scroll through the pictures and see that the second jig is similar to the first but I placed the saw on the inside of the clamped pieces at the interaction of the two curves.
Morley Bar Stool Leg Repair
After the incident with the router leg template, things went fairly well with the exception of tear out on another leg. Managed to catch the grain and took a corner off one of the legs. Since it was close to the edge I made a repair before rerouting to salvage the lumber.
Digging through the scraps, I found a suitable piece of lumber that has similar grain and prepared a replacement piece to fit into the damaged area. Glued it in place and planed it flat and you can hardly tell there was a problem. Now I need to be careful to place the repair on the inside of the leg and no one will know.
Hopefully I can confine the lessons and mistakes to the one stool and in the end probably reproduce another.
Morley Bar Stool – Legs
Getting the grain right on the legs is critical for both strength and appearance. I spent quite a lot of time with templates selecting which pieces to use and which to avoid. The lumber was then cut and dimensioned with the usual power tools. Finally I used the bandsaw to get close to the final dimensions and then it was on to the router and template. Very new techniques for me.
Using a guided bit and template I made the plywood jig then fastened on clamps and everything seemed to work well.
Until it didn’t….while finishing the third leg one of the clamp supports came loose and the router decided to make its own path. A few screws to repair the jig and a new piece of lumber were needed to complete the legs for all four stools.
Morley Bar Stool Seat
The original stool design has contrasting lumber for the legs and seat. its a design that I like and with the legs cherry, it made sense to go with a lighter colored maple for the seat. The seat design requires three pieces of lumber to be glued together followed by shaping on the band saw. The shaping jigs will be an entirely new process so let’s get moving!
I used the usual methods for prepping the lumber to make the seat blanks. Handsaw to cut to length and then the planer to flatten the sides. Nothing unique from my other projects. Once the pieces were milled and edges square it was time for building jigs.
Along the way I did make a modification to my planer. I never purchased the attachment for dust collection (wish I had, but its now unavailable) and have been using a homemade attachment for many years. I finally swapped out the flange for attaching the dust hose and it is a much needed improvement.
The jigs for curving the seat were relatively straight forward (I did very well on the leg jig) It’s really a piece of plywood that is trimmed to fit the curve. One piece rides inside the other on the bandsaw and with a few clamps its done.
The only issue I had was a broken bandsaw blade which looks like a manufacturing defect.
Blanks were glued and clamped and the seats are 50% complete. All it needs is some shaping and trimming.
Cherry Side Table Joinery
The title mentions joinery, on this page I have now mentioned joinery three times. The pictures lead you to think that perhaps there will be many joinery photographs, however someone was more focused on cutting the joints than photographing them.
There is little new woodworking on this project. It is similar to the prior Walnut side table and the through tenons require precise measurement and chisel work. These joints were mostly cut by hand, after all cherry is a pleasure to work and the rhythmic chopping is the calm after a storm.
A couple of problems occurred while make the joints and I think this picture shows them all. The first occurred while dry fitting the saddle joint in the upper cross pieces. Although the joint fit fine the small amount of pressure when asssembling resulted in a crack along the grain. The upper right of the photograph shows this piece clamped. The second thing to notice is the organized chaos. While glueing the broken joint, I worked on several pieces to save time. What did not reveal itself until glue up was that I had planed all the pieces removing many of the marking and numbers. This suddenly revealed itself in the glue up when the LAST PIECE did not fit well!
The result of this misfit was a minor wobble when the table was glued together. This was easy to fix by planing the bottom of one leg. I sharpened up the #4 and right before the first swipe realized that a little care may save me from breaking a corner. I carefully clamped a couple of pieces of scrap to the back end and took about three strokes and the wobble was gone.
The only thing left was to screw the top and bottom together and add a couple of coats of Shellac.
Several lessons from this piece: Repeating a project provides the chance to modify and change certain aspects. In this case the edge of the top was chamfered and the joints varied. More attention to wood grain adds to the appeal. Finishing is still a problem, but by using a rag rather then a brush it was much improved. Number your parts where you won’t remove the marks. High Angle frogs make a difference.
orepass 